Big things are happening on the North-East coast of Islay. I’m not talking about the development of Ardnahoe distillery, but the continued renaissance of Bunnahabhain. Since being taken over by Burn Stewart in 2003, which was then subsequently acquired by Distell (2013), the revamping and increased strength of the core-range has seen it do well, although sadly prices are seeming to rise recently.
As well as the age statements of 12, 18 and 25, there are plenty of limited releases that escape the cold grey archway of the distillery. Last year saw several, some with big age statements and similarly sized price tags (46 year old for £5,000) whilst others were at the more affordable end of things, though this did occasionally mean that the age statement was lost; Stiùireadair, a part replacement of the 12 year old at around £40.
The success of Bunnahabhain and whisky in general culminated in the announcement of £11m of improvement works to make the distillery more accessible to tourists, either by road or sea and to make the distillery and bit easier on the eye. The style of whisky will not change though and unlike Tobermory, I have not seen anything that indicates production will stop whilst the upgrades are made.
Since the 1960s, Bunnahabhain has been virtually unpeated (around 2ppm maximum for the malted barley) and, as a result, makes much larger use of sherry casks than other Islay distilleries. Two of the releases from last year that caught my eye were full on sherry monsters.
My previous review of the Lagavulin 12 noted that modern whisky does seem to have a trend for quite singular, definite whiskies. These two Bunna releases fall into that category. The first, a 14 year old, was matured in second fill Oloroso casks for around 11 years before being finished in Pedro Ximinez casks for three more. To call this “sherry-influenced” is an understatement, as the tasting notes will show.
The second is again matured in Oloroso sherry casks, 7 to be precise. The difference here is that the spirit was made with peated malt, details are scant on exactly how peated but perhaps at least 35ppm. Given these two facts, this expression is called Moine (Scots Gaelic for peated) Oloroso. Bunnahabhain even go as far as stating that all the casks came from warehouse 7, so there’s that!
Both expressions are offered at cask strength, with natural colour and un-chill filtered. With expectations of big, bruising flavours, let’s dive in.
Bunnahabhain Pedro Ximinez 14 Year Old – 54.3% – around £85 on release, though it it’ll take some finding at this price now.
Nose – whilst distilleries such as Glendronach, Macallan and Glengoyne release sherry bombs, nothing appears more sherried as this. It begins to leave its whisky origins behind, it’s so sweet and fruity. It smells like a high abv sherry, simple as that. Raisins and prunes are the dominant dried fruit. There’s black treacle toffee and a definite brine note too, offering a reminder that this is whisky that has been matured in the Bunnahabhain warehouses. Some oak even managed to poke through too. Water adds a lightly burnt note, like the top of a fruit cake caught in the oven a minute too long, as well as a delicate floral quality. 6.5
Palate – unsurprisingly follows the nose: sherry! It feels sticky where the glass meets your lips. Ginger biscuits, more dark toffee and orange peel. It’s so intense that it’s hard to pick out much more. The PX sherry is tremendously sweet but the saltiness present battles against it and neither quite wins through. 6
Finish – remains sweet and sticky, true to form. 5
Total Score: 17.5 / 30
Time and water are this drams friend, they improve the complexity a great deal. It’s syrupy sweet and there’s so much sherry, but the high abv tames the sweetness just enough for me.
Bunnahabhain Moine Oloroso – 60.1% – around £80 when released, but now also seems to have gone but for auctions.
Nose – not as ferocious as expected. The peat and sherry combine from the off. It’s not as dirty as a Springbank or Kilchoman, it’s slightly more refined. There’s a little burnt rubber, but I like this in context. The main flavour though is barbecue spices: paprika, cumin and dried chilli flakes. Some sweeter dried fruit lurks underneath. 7.5
Palate – now we’re cooking! The peat brings a constant smokiness and the sherry flavours come and go over the top. Whilst picking out raisins and the savoury spices of the nose, you almost don’t notice the peat presence getting larger. The sherry grows with it and together they envelope the palate entirely in spicy, smoky, rubbery goodness, along with typical Bunnahabhain saltiness. 8
Finish – salt, spice and rubber last long after the liquid is gone. 7.5
Total Score: 23 / 30
More balanced than the 14 year old Pedro Ximinez, there’s more going on here too. It’s still brash and bold, but get to know it a bit more and this whisky has a slightly softer side.
These two whiskies deliver what they promise, if you’re going for lots of sherry and lots of peat, you won’t be disappointed. Well, except for them both being sold out.
Peak Whisky 
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