The Diageo Special Releases are basically irrelevant to me. The headline names are rolled out (Port Ellen and Brora) along with other, only occasionally seen malts. Most of them command three or four figure prices. They represent the arms race taking place between whisky producers and purchasers. Early releases saw purchasers take a chance to make a profit on the bottles. Diageo responded by wondering “why aren’t we having that money, we make the whisky?” and accordingly raised the prices to where they are now. The special releases come in September/October and not only are all last year’s bottles still available, but some of 2016s too, so make of that what you will in terms of supply and demand.
The bottom of the barrel in terms of price is usually the Lagavulin 12 year old. Since 2002, this cask strength expression from Islay has been part of the line-up. The batches do vary and it seems that 2017’s release was proving very popular indeed. I think I remember correctly when I say that legendary Lagavulin warehouse man Iain McArthur prefers a refill bourbon matured expression. I too, was fond of the 20 and 30 odd year old expressions he pours if you visit the distillery.
Thanks to the large amounts of this ‘limited’ release, Drinks by the Dram were offering samples of this rather having to commit to the full bottle purchase, which will set you back around £90.
Lagavulin 12 Year Old – 2017 Special Release – 56.5%
Nose – fresh and clean. I was expecting more peat, but whilst it’s certainly there, it doesn’t rule the roost for me. There’s vanilla, preserved lemons and fresh orange. Mineralic sea air, as well as slightly heavier elements of salted caramel and buttery fudge. A nuttiness pervades, bringing peanuts and walnuts. It softens with time and a sandalwood note develops too. Water makes things creamier and sweeter. 7.5
Palate – begins gently, a hint of grapefruit made sweeter with a dusting of vanilla icing sugar. Then salt, smoke and vegetal peat swamp the tongue. From the lightest beginning, this whisky turns into something colossal. A hint of citrus and some peanut echo the nose. A drop of water calms things down, taking the edge courtesy of the high alcohol away. 7.5
Finish – huge, with more salt and peat. It fills then dries the mouth. 8
Total Score: 23 / 30
A stellar example of a whisky with balance between cask and distillate. Today, a lot of expressions are “sherry-matured” this, “peated to X levels” that, they have something extra beyond just being a whisky from a certain distillery. This is Lagavulin, it’s been aged gently for 12 years and it’s good.
Peak Whisky 